Brenners Bridal

Diamond information for couples interested in buying a diamond engagement ring. At a point in nearly every man's life, there comes a time when his heart knows it's time to buy a diamond engagement ring for the woman he loves. Only then will you feel comfortable buying a diamond engagement ring. There are many things to consider when learning how to buy a diamond, you should never rush into buying a diamond without first doing a little research as to how the diamonds are priced. Buying a diamond is no different, except most of know us very little about diamonds. Buying a diamond ring is often an emotional - not to mention expensive - experience.

Diamond Ring:
Buying a diamond ring can be a huge investment and you want to get one with the perfect diamond in it, so you may be intimidated if you are a first time buyer. Buying a diamond means investing in a piece for forever. Every individual buying a diamond seeks out the best they can afford. When buying a diamond, consider your budget and where the stone will be worn to help determine the ideal carat size. The Four C's of Buying a Diamond, to determine the best price for your ring, you need to be familiar with the four C's. The four C's of cut, color, clarity, and carat are explained.

Diamond Color
Most diamonds have a slight hint of yellow and the diamond color scale is based on the amount of yellow present in a diamond. It's the absence of color that adds value to the diamond. Diamond color is graded according to the GIA Grading Scale. Grades are based on the amount of yellow that is visible when viewed face down through the pavilion using the GIA Diamond Lite. The color scale ranges from D (colorless) to Z (yellow tinge).

Diamond Cut
To achieve the maximum reflection of light that causes a diamond to sparkle requires a diamond to have an Ideal/Excellent cut grade. Ideal cut diamonds are graded as such because they fall within the ideal cut grade parameters specified by the diamond grading labs. The better cut grades are likely to display more fire and brilliance and since their appearance is more desirable, they are priced accordingly. The GIA and EGL have only extended ideal/excellent cut grade parameters to round brilliant stones at this time. Determining a diamond's cut grade, however, goes beyond simple measurements of width and depth. Diamond Cut is perhaps the most important of the four C's.

Diamond Clarity
A diamond's clarity is determined by the number, nature, position, size and color of internal characteristics called "inclusions" and surface features called "blemishes". These show themselves as the various characteristics which make up the clarity of a diamond, included crystals, feathers, clouds etc. These characteristics are sometimes not visible to the naked eye and they are what make each diamond unique. This clarity grade becomes more important as the diamond size increases. The clarity scale was developed by the Gemological Institute of America GIA to quantify these imperfections.

Diamond Carat
It is a common misconception that carats refer to the size of a diamond. In reality, a carat is the standard unit of weight by which diamonds are measured.  Since a carat is a measure of weight, not size, one diamond of the same carat weight may look bigger than another depending on the cut. A premium cut diamond may actually appear bigger than many diamonds of a higher carat weight.

Diamond Shape
Stones come in different shapes - round, oval, marquise, pear, emerald, heart, princess, and radiant.

Round
A round brilliant is a great choice if you want the most sparkle and the most enduring classic shape round-brilliant diamonds are the only shape to have this ideal proportion defined. Brilliant cut diamonds have facets that are shaped like triangles and kites. Today's round brilliant diamond has a total of fifty-eight facets, but you'll see varying facet numbers in vintage brilliant cut diamonds. Even though Round Brilliant cut diamonds are the most expensive in the market, they make up the overwhelming majority of diamonds found in engagement rings, and are popular as stud earrings and pendants.

Oval
The elongated shape of Oval diamonds gives a very flattering effect to your finger when worn in a ring, and is found in some of the most beautiful diamond engagement rings. Unlike round cut diamonds, oval cut diamonds have an elongated shape, which makes the diamond appear larger in carat weight. Oval cut diamonds are essentially elongated round cut diamonds. Many women with smaller hands or shorter fingers prefer the look of oval cut diamonds and pear shaped diamonds because they truly slenderize and elongate the fingers on the hand.

Marquise
While marquise diamonds are not as popular as round cut diamonds or princess cut diamonds, they are still quite sophisticated and elegant. A marquise cut diamond has a uniquely beautiful shape that is favoured by many women, but a small percentage of brilliance will be sacrificed for the beauty of this uniquely diamond shape. Compared to the round cuts, the marquise diamonds are not as popular these days. In addition, the shape of the marquise diamond almost makes the stone appear larger than it is. The Marquise shape was created for Louis the XIV and is has become a timeless classic.

Pear
The pear shape is a stunningly feminine diamond shape with a rounded end on one side and a tapering point at the other.  Due to their elongated shape, pear cut diamonds are known for their slenderizing effect. .The Pear cut allows a range of cutting styles, so that the teardrop shape can be wider, slimmer, or cut to Ideal proportions, based on your choice and preferences. Pear shaped diamonds have a rounded end and a single point. While pear shaped diamonds are not as traditional as round cut diamonds, or as trendy as princess cut diamonds, they are still coveted by many people.

Emerald
The emerald-cut diamond is among the most classic of diamond shapes that is distinguished by beveled corners and step facets, emerald cut diamonds are more transparent than other shapes, resulting in the need for higher standards of clarity. The emerald cut can be one of the least expensive to cut because its shape is most like the natural shape of the rough diamond crystal. Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire dispersion than the other brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic beauty and elegance not seen in other cuts. The trim lines of Emerald cut diamonds lend an elegant, sophisticated air to both the simplest of ring designs.

Heart
The heart-shaped diamond is the most romantic of diamond shapes and a symbol of love and affection, the heart cut diamond is an excellent choice for an anniversary or engagement ring. It is a tender gesture to make to someone special. A quality heart-shaped diamond is lovely and distinctive, with an even shape and well-defined outline. They are the ultimate symbol of romance, and more and more people are choosing heart cut diamonds for engagement and anniversary rings. Heart Shaped Diamonds are rarer and more expensive as it takes a large piece of diamond rough to shape cut and polish to something that is the ultimate symbol of love "the heart"

Princess
A modern innovation, the princess shape dazzles and sparkles with its star burst facet pattern, while still leaving the crown of the diamond flat and open. The princess cut is stunning set as a solitaire it is a modern classic of clean, square lines and beautiful sparkle. Its sharp corners are usually contained in a four-pronged or bezel set in wedding rings. You will also find Princess cut diamonds are often channeled into the wedding band itself. Princess Cut Diamonds are for those people who love the sparkle and brilliance associated with round cut diamonds, but prefer  the shape of a square. While the round brilliant solitaire seems to be the most popular shape right now for engagement rings, many people are deviating from this trend and going with princess cut diamonds.

Radiant
The radiant cut was first patented in the late 1970's by Henry Grossbard, with its angular shape and brilliant cut facets it makes a scintillating alternative to other cuts such as the Emerald cut. The radiant shaped diamond can be considered a modified brilliant diamond that is closely related to the princess cut diamond because of its square shape. High quality Radiant cut diamonds combine the fire and sparkle of Emerald and Round cuts.

Now you know the different shapes of diamonds that you can purchase and which shape will accentuate individual fingers or provide brilliant sparkle we can now move on to the ring.

There are many different metals used for rings today which can be grouped into two, precious and non -precious, those in the precious group including silver, gold, and platinum, while those in the non-precious group can include brass, copper ad nickel. Most rings today are made of gold or platinum so we will focus our discussion on these two precious metals.

Gold
Gold comes in various colors that can reflect the carat value of the carat of yellow gold with 10k, 14k and  18k being the most popular. Did you know that you can get Rose Gold, white gold and yellow gold and that white gold is more a silver color than white? Until recently white gold was yellow gold with as much of the yellow gold removed as possible, however it was still not a true white color. To give you that white (silver) brilliance the rings are plated with Rhodium or palladium.

Platinum
Platinum became very popular for its natural white (silver) color and durability. Customers that buy white gold rings that have rhodium plating will have to have the ring re-plated every few years if it's worn regularly,  as the rhodium wears off. With platinum the color stays the same no mater how often you wear it. Platinum is about twice the price of 14K Gold and can push the price of the setting and diamond out of the range of some customers.

Ring Mounts
There are thousands of different settings available for you to choose from; they come in all shapes and sizes, from solitaires to multi stone rings. Your choice is a personal one; however you should consider when you are going to be wearing your ring. If you plan to wear it daily then pick something with a low profile that protects the diamond and setting from getting damaged if you accidentally catch it against something. This could lead to the diamond coming loose and having to be reset, to forcing the diamond out of the mounting and breaking it.

On the other hand,  if you are only going to wear the ring for special occasions then purchase a mount that holds the diamond high so that it's well displayed and allow the light to enter unobstructed from the top and show the scintillating fire and brilliance.

Remember that if you are purchasing a high quality diamond for your ring that having other diamonds around it will detract from your central diamond. If on the other hand you are purchasing a smaller center diamond adding smaller ones around the outside will make the center one look larger.

Engagement sets are also very popular, with couples purchasing the engagement ring and then going back and purchasing the wedding band from the set, for that special day.

Charts for Clarity and Color can be found in the resource section of Jewels by Truros. Please see us at Jewels by Truros

Derek Parnell is a Graduate Gemologist (GIA) and can be contacted at Jewels by Truros a division of Truros Corporation.

Author: Derek Parnell
Article Source: EzineArticles.com

Today, few fine diamonds over one carat are sold without a diamond grading report, or certificate, as they are also called, from a respected laboratory. Reports issued by the GIA/Gem trade laboratory are most widely used in the United States and many countries around world.

A grading report does more than clarify the stone's genuineness, it fully describes the stone and evaluate each of the critical factors affecting quality, beauty, and value. Grading reports can be very useful for a variety of reasons. The information they contain can provide verification of the "facts" as represented by the seller and enable one to make a safer decision when purchasing a diamond. Another, important function of reports is to verify the identity of a specific diamond at some future time, if, for example, it has been out of one's possession for any reason. For insurance purposes, the information provided on the report will help ensure replacement of a lost or stolen diamond with one that is truly "compatible quality."

Reports are not necessary for every diamond, and many beautiful diamonds used in jewelry are sold without them. But when considering the purchase of a very fine diamond weighting one carat or more, we strongly recommend that the diamond be accompanied by a report, even if it means having a diamond removed from its setting (no reputable lab will issue a report on a mounted diamond), and then reset. If you are considering a diamond that lacks a report, it is easy for your jeweler to obtain one. Or, now that GIA is issuing diamond grading reports to the public, you may submit a diamond at GIA yourself.

Do not rely on the report alone

The availability and widespread use of diamond grading reports can, when properly understood, enable even those without professional skills to make valid comparisons between several stones, and thus make more informed buying decisions. Reports can be an important tool to help you understand differences affecting price. But we must caution you not to let them interfere with what you like or really want. Remember, some diamonds are very beautiful even though they don't adhere to establish standards. In the final analysis, use your own eyes and ask yourself how you like the stone.

A customer who was trying to decide between several diamonds. Her husband wanted to buy her the stone with the best report, but she preferred another stone which, according to what was on the reports, wasn't as good. They decide against the best diamond and bought the one that made her happiest. The important thing is that they knew exactly what they were buying, and paid an appropriate price for that specific combination of quality factors. In other words, they made an informed choice. The reports gave them assurance as to the facts, and greater confidence that they knew what they were really comparing.

Improper use of reports can lead to costly mistakes

As important s diamond grading reports can be, they can also be misused and lead to erroneous conclusions and costly mistakes. The key to being able to rely on a diamond report, and having confidence in your decision, lies in knowing how to read it properly. For example, when trying to decide between two diamonds accompanied by diamond grading reports, buyers all too often make a decision by comparing just two factors evaluated on the reports, color and clarity, and think they have made a sound decision. This is rarely the case. No one can make a sound decision based on color and clarity alone. In fact, when significant price differences exists between two stones of the same color and clarity as the more expensive stone, and often it is not the better value. Having the same color and clarity is only part of the total picture. Differences in price indicates differences in quality, differences you may not see or understand. With round diamonds, the information you need is on the report, but you need to understand what all the information means before you can make valid comparisons.

A word of caution: Do not make a purchase relying solely on any report without making sure the report matches the diamond, and that the diamond is still in the same condition described. Always seek a professional gemologist, gemologist-appraiser, or gem-testing laboratory to confirm that the stone accompanying report is, in fact, the stone described there, and that the stone is still in the same condition indicated on the report. There are instances where a report has been accidentally sent with the wrong stone. And, in some cases, deliberate fraud is involved.

How to read a diamond grading report

Check the date issued. It is very important to check the date on the report. It's always possible that the diamond has been damaged since the report was issued. This sometimes occurs with diamonds sold at auction. Since diamonds can become chipped or cracked with wear, one must always check them. For example, you might see a diamond accompanied by a report describing it as D - Flawless. If this stone were badly chipped after the report was issued, however, the clarity grade could easily drop to VVS, and in some cases, much lower. Needless to say, in such a case value would be dramatically reduced.

Who issued the report? Check the name of the laboratory issuing the report. Is the report from a laboratory that is known and respected? If not, the information on the report may not be reliable. Several well-respected laboratories issue reports on diamonds. The best known in the United States include the Gemological Institute of America Gem Trade Laboratory (GIA/GTL or GIA), and the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL). Respected European labs issuing reports include the Belgian Diamond High Council (HRD). Regardless of which report you are reading, all will provide similar information, including:

Identity of the stone. This verifies that the stone is a diamond. Some diamond reports don't make a specific statement about identity because they are called diamond reports and are only issued for genuine diamonds. If the report is not called a "diamond grading report" then there must be a statement attesting that it is genuine diamond.

Weight. The exact carat weight must be given.

Dimensions. Any diamond, of any shape, should be measured and the dimensions recorded as a means of identification, especially for insurance/identification purposes. The dimensions given on a diamond report are very prices and provide information that is important for several reasons. First, the dimensions can help you determine that the diamond being examined is, in fact, the same diamond described in the report, since the likelihood of having two diamonds with exactly the same carat weight and millimeter dimensions is remote. Second, if the diamond has been damaged and re-cut since the report was issued, the millimeter dimensions may provide a clue that something has been altered, which might affect the carat weight as well. Any discrepancy between the dimension that you or your jeweler get by measuring the stone, and those provided on the report, should be a red flag to check the stone very carefully.

Finally, the dimensions on the report also tell you whether the stone is round or out of round. Out of round diamonds sell for less than those that are more perfectly round.

Fine diamonds are "well-rounded".

The diamond's roundness will affect value, so it is determined very carefully from measurements of the stone's diameter, gauged at several points around around the circumference. For a round diamond, the report will usually give two diameters, measured in millimeters and noted to the hundredth: for example, 6.51 rather than 6.5; or 6.07 rather than 6.0. These indicate the highest and lowest diameter. Diamonds are very rarely perfectly round, which is why most diamond reports will show two measurements. recognizing the rarity of truly round diamonds, some deviation is permitted, and the stone will not be considered "out of round" unless it deviates by more than the established norm, approximately 0.10 millimeter in a one carat stone. In a one carat diamond, if the difference is 0.10 or less, then the stone is considered "round." If the difference is greater, it is "out-of-round."

To calculate an acceptable deviation on a particular stone, average the high and the low diameter dimension given and multiply that number by 0.0154. For example, if the dimensions given are 8.20x 8.31, the diameter average is 8.25 ( (8.20 + 8.31)/2). Multiply 8.25 by 0.0154 = 0.127. This is the acceptable deviation allowable for this stone (between 0.12 and 0.13). The actual deviation in this example would be 0.11 (8.31 - 8.20), well within the tolerance, so this diamond would be considered "round." Some flexibility is permitted on diamonds over two carats.

Depending on degree of out-of-roundness (how much it deviates from being perfectly round), price can be affected. The greater the deviation, the lower the price should be.

Dimensions for fancy shapes

While dimension for fancy shapes diamonds are not as important as they are for round diamonds, there are length to width ratios that are considered "normal" and deviations may result in price reductions. The following reflect acceptable ranges:

Pear shape: 1.50:1 to 1.75:1

Marquise shape: 1.75:1 to 2.25:1

Emerald shape: 1.50:1 to 1.75:1

Oval shape: 1.50:1 to 1.75:1

To better understand what this means, let's look at a marquise diamond as an example. If its report showed the length to be 15 millimeters and the width to be 10 millimeters the length to width ratio would be 15 to 10 or 1.5:1. This would be acceptable. If, however, the dimensions were 30 mm long by 10 mm wide, the ratio would be 30 to 10 or 3:1. This would be unacceptable; the ratio is too great, and the result is a stone that looks much too long for its width. Note: A long marquise is not necessarily bad, and some people prefer a longer shape, but it is important to understand that such stones should sell for less than those with normal lengths. Always keep in mind the length to width ratio of fancy cuts, and adjust the price for that are not in the acceptable range.

Evaluating proportioning from the report

As discussed earlier, good proportioning is as critical to diamond as it is to the man or woman who wears it! The proportioning, especially the depth percentage and table percentage, s what determines how brilliance and fire the stone will have.

The information provided on diamond reports pertaining to proportions is critically important for round, brilliant cut diamonds. Unfortunately, it is only of minimal use with fancy fancy shape diamonds. For fancies, you must learn to rely on your eye to tell whether or not the proportioning is acceptable: are there differences in brilliance across the stone? Or flatness? Or dark spots such as "bow-ties" resulting from poor proportioning.

Evaluating the proportioning of a diamond is as critical as evaluating the color and clarity grades. Diamonds that are cut close to "ideal" proportions, stones with "excellent" makes can easily cost more than the norm while diamonds with poor makes sell for less; very badly proportioned stones should be priced for much less. The information on a diamond report can help you evaluate the proportioning and know whether or not you should be paying more, or less, for a particular diamond.

Depth percentage and Table percentage key to beauty

To determine whether or not a round stone's proportioning, so critical to its beauty, is good, look at the section of the report that describes depth percentage and table percentage. The depth percentage represents the depth of the stone, the distance from the table to the culet, as a percentage of the width of the stone. The table percentage represents the width of the table as a percentage of the width of the entire stone. These numbers indicate how well a round stone has been cut in terms of its proportioning, and must adhere to very precise standards. Your eye may be able to see differences in sparkle and brilliance, but you may not be able to discern the subtleties of proportioning. The percentages on the report should fall within a fairly specific range in order for the stone to be judged acceptable, excellent, or poor.

Some reports also provide information about the crown angle. The crown angle tells you the angle at which the crown portion has been cut. This angle will affect the depth and table percentage. Normally, if the crown angle is between 34 and 36 degrees, the table and depth will be excellent; between 32 and 34, good; between 30 and 32 degrees, fair; and less than 30 degrees, poor. If the exact crown angle is given, it is probably considered acceptable. If not, there is a statement indicating that crown angle exceeds 36 degrees, or is less than 30 degrees.

Depth percentage

A round diamond cut with a depth percentage between 58 and 64 percentage is normally a lovely, lively stone. You should note, however, that girdle thickness will affect depth percentage. A high depth percentage could result from a thick or very thick girdle, so when checking depth percentage on the diamond report, check the girdle information as well.
Stones with a depth percentage over 64% or under 57% will normally be too deep or too shallow to exhibit maximum beauty and should sell for less. If the depth percentage is too high, the stone will look smaller than its weight indicates. If the depth percentage is exceptionally high, brilliance can be significantly affected. Diamonds that are so shallow, that is, stones with such low depth percentages, that they have no brilliance and liveliness at all. When dirty, such stones look no better than a piece of glass.

We avoid diamonds with depth percentages over 64% or under 57%. If you are attracted to such diamonds remember that they should sell for much less per carat.

Table Percentage

Round diamonds cut with tables ranging from 53% - 64% usually result in beautiful, lively stones. Diamonds with smaller tables usually exhibit more fire than those with larger tables, but stones with larger tables may have more brilliance. As you see, table width affects the diamond's personality, but deciding which personality is more desirable is a matter of personal taste.

Finish

Under finish on the diamond report, you will find an evaluation of the diamond's polish and symmetry. Polish serves as an indicator of the care taken by the cutter. The quality of the stone's polish is a factor that can not be ignored in evaluating the overall quality of a diamond, as well as its cost and value. Polish can be described on the report as excellent, very good, good, fair, or poor. The price per carat should be less on diamonds with "fair" or "poor" polish. Cost per carat is usually more for diamonds that have "very good" or "excellent" Polish.
Symmetry describes several factors:

How the facet edges align with one another;
whether or not the facets from one side of the diamond match corresponding facets on the opposite side;
whether or not facets in the top portion of the diamond are properly aligned with corresponding ones in the bottom portion.

When the symmetry is described as "fair", or worse, something is out of line.
When evaluating symmetry, the most important area to check is the alignment of the crown (top) to the pavilion (bottom). If it is not good, it will make a visual difference in the beauty of the stone, and correspondingly in its price. To check for proper alignment here, simply look at the diamond from the side to see whether or not the facets just above the girdle align with the facets just beneath the girdle.

When the top and bottom facets do not line up, it indicates sloppy cutting and, more important, the overall beauty of the diamond's is diminished. This will reduce the price more than other symmetry faults.

How does the girdle affect value?

The girdle is another important item described on diamond grading reports. The report will indicate whether or not the girdle is polished, or faceted, and how thick it is. Girdle thickness ie very important for two reasons:

It affects value, and
It affects the diamond durability.
Girdle thickness ranges from extremely thin to extremely thick. Diamonds with girdles that are excessively thin or thick normally sell for less than other diamonds. An extremely thin girdle increases the risk of chipping. remember that despite their legendary hardness, diamonds are brittle, so very thin edge poses a greater risk.

If a diamond has an extremely thick girdle, its cost should also be reduced somewhat because the stone will look smaller than another diamond of the same weight with a more normal girdle thickness. This is because extra weight is being consumed by the thickness of the girdle itself.
There are some cases in which a very thick girdle is acceptable. Shapes that have one or more points, such as the pear shape, heart, or marquise, can have thick to very thick girdles in area of the points and still be in the acceptable range. Here the extra thickness in the girdle helps protect the points themselves from chipping.

Generally, a diamond with an extremely thin girdle should sell for less than one with an extremely thick girdle because of the diamond's increased vulnerability to chipping. However, if the girdle is much too thick (as in older diamonds), the price can also be significantly less because the stone cam look significantly smaller than other diamonds of comparable weight.

The Culet

The culet looks like a point at the bottom of the diamond, but it is normally another facet, a tiny, flat polish surface. This facet should be small or very small. A small or very small culet won't be noticeable from the top. Some diamonds, today, are pointed. This means that there really is no culet, that the stone has been cut straight down to a point instead. The larger the culet, the more visible it will be form the top. The more visible, the lower the cost of the diamond. Diamond described as having large or "open" culet as in old European or old-mine cut diamonds are less desirable, because the appearance of the culet causes a reduction in sparkle or brilliance at the very center of the stone. These stones normally need to be re-cut, and their price should take the need for re-cutting. for the same reasons, a chipped or broken culet will seriously detract from the stone's beauty and significantly reduce the cost.

Color and Clarity

The color and clarity grades on a diamond report are the items most people are familiar with. They are important factors in terms of determining the value of a diamond, but as the preceding discussion has shown, they do not tell the whole story about the diamond.

A word about fluorescence

Fluorescence, if present, will also be indicated on a diamond grading report. It will be graded weak, moderate, strong, or very strong. Some reports indicate the color of the fluorescence as blue, yellow, white, and so on. If fluorescence is moderate to very strong and the color is not indicated, you should ask the jeweler to tell you what color the stone fluoresces. A stone with strong yellow fluorescence should sell for less since it will appear more yellow than it really is when worn in daylight or fluorescent lighting. The presence of blue fluorescence will not detract, and in some cases may be considered a bonus since it may make the stone appear more white than it really is in daylight or fluorescent lighting. However, if the report show a very strong blue fluorescence, there may be an oily or milky appearance to the diamond. If the stone appears milky or oily to you as you look at it, especially in daylight or fluorescent light, it should sell for less.

Pay attention to the full clarity picture provided

The placement, number, type, and color of internal and external flaws will be indicated on a diamond grading report, may include a plotting, d diagram showing all the details. Be sure you carefully note all the details in addition to the cumulative grade. Remember, the placement of imperfections can affect value.

A reliable diamond grading report cannot be issued on a fracture-filled diamond, so GIA and most other labs will not issue a report on diamonds that have been clarity enhanced by this method. The diamond will be returned with a notation that it is filled and cannot be graded. Reports are issued on diamonds that have been clarity enhanced by laser. Remember, however, that no matter what the clarity grade, a lasered diamond should not cost less than another with the same grade.

A final word about diamond reports

Diamond grading reports provide a very useful tool to aid in comparing diamonds and evaluating quality and value. But the key to their usefulness is proper understanding of how to read them, and how to look at the stone. Those who take the time to learn and understand what they are reading and, therefore, what they are really buying, will have a major advantage over those who do not.

The article above can be used on your web site or newsletter.

When it is published, May I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio., contact and copyright information that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an e-mail of notification along with a complimentary copy of publication.

Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.

http://www.thejewelryhut.com

The best source for fine Diamond, gemstone, and Pearl Jewelry on the Web

Author: Bijan Aziz
Article Source: EzineArticles.com

Getting to know Gems

Becoming intimate with Gems

The major cost of the engagement ring is often the sparkling diamond or shimmering colored gemstone that you select to adorn it. To avoid costly mistakes, it is very important to learn as much as possible about the stone you are considering. The best way to take the risk out of buying a particular gem is to familiarize yourself with the gem. While the average consumer can't hope to make the same precise judgments as a qualified gemologist whose scientific training and wealth of practical experience provide a far greater data base from which to operate, the consumer can learn to judge a gemstone as a "total personality" and learn what the critical factors are; color, clarity (sometimes referred to in the trade as "perfection"), sparkle and brilliance, and weight, and how to balance them in judging the gem's value. Learning about these factors spending time in the marketplace looking, listening, and asking questions before making the purchase will prepare you to be a wise buyer more likely to get what you really want, at a fair price.

Selecting a Diamond

The diamond engagement ring has emerged as the universal symbol of love and commitment between two people. Not only is it the formal beginning; visible "announcement" of your your engagement, but the centuries old symbolism surrounding diamond reflects both the preciousness of the moment and commitment made by two people in love to cherish each other forever.
While some woman prefer other gems to diamond, or opt for the special significant of a family heirloom, a diamond is the overwhelming choice of today's bride.

Some brides to be have no doubt been taken by surprise with the unexpected presentation of an engagement ring, but it is probably safest to go about the task of selecting the ring together. While the element of surprise is very romantic, keep in mind that the engagement ring is meant to be worn for a lifetime. So it is especially important that the bride-to-be really loves it; that it reflects her personal taste and style. If you are a die hard romantic who wants to surprise her, we suggest placing a photo of a ring you like inside the "tiny black ring box" and presenting her with this instead; it combines romance with practicality, and you are sending another important message: not only do you love her, but you understand the importance of working together on such important decision!

The previous and following articles, we will give everything you need to know to purchase a diamond with greater confidence; whether you are shopping for an engagement ring, wedding or anniversary band, or simply a beautiful piece of diamond jewelry to commemorate an important moment. The greater your awareness of the elements that determine diamond quality, the better chances of knowing what you want, getting exactly what you are after, and deriving lasting pleasure from it.

- What is diamond?

Chemically speaking, a diamond is the simplest of all gemstones. A diamond is plain, crystallized carbon; the same substance, chemically, as the soot left on the inside of a glass globe after the burning of a candle; it is the same substance used in lead pencils.

The diamond differs from these in its crystal form, which gives it the desirable properties have made it so highly prized; its hardness, which gives it unsurpassed wear-ability; its brilliance; and its fire. (But note that while diamond is the hardest natural substance known, it can be chipped or broken if hit hard from certain angles, and if the "girdle" has been cut too thin it can be chipped with even a modest blow.)

The transparent white colorless) diamond is most popular variety, but diamond also occurs in colors. When color is prominent it is called a fancy diamond. Diamond is frequently found in nice yellow and brown shades. Diamond color such as pink, light blue, light green, and lavender occur much more rarely. In diamonds, the colors seen are usually pastel. Deep diamond colors in hues of red, green, and dark blue are extremely rare. Historically, most colored diamonds have sold for more than their colorless counterparts, except for light yellow or brown varieties. Yellow or brown in very pale shades may not be fancy diamonds but off color stones that are very common and sell for much less than colorless diamonds or those with true "fancy" color.

In addition to natural color diamonds, "fancies" that have obtained their color artificially, through exposure to certain types of radiation and heating techniques, are readily available. The bill of sale (and any accompanying certification appraisal, etc.) should specify whether the color is natural or induced. If induced, the price should be much less, although the gem will often be just as beautiful as one with a natural color.

- The four factors that determine diamond value
Diamond quality and value are determined by four factors. These are called the "Four C's." If we were to rank then based on their important in determining the value of a diamond, we would list them as follows:

- Color (body color)

- Clarity (degree of flawlessness)

- Cutting and proportioning (often referred to as the make)

- Carat weight (which affects the size)

In terms of determining beauty, however, we would rank them in a different order:

1. Cutting and proportioning

2. Color

3. Clarity

4. Carat weight

Tips on getting the diamond you really want, within your budget

If you have an unlimited budget, you may feel it's important to have a large stone of the finest quality available; a "D" flawless with an ideal make. But for most of us who must work within a limited budget, selecting the correct ring is a matter of learning how to juggle, and discovering what factors will best meet our needs, emotional as well as financial.

- In diamonds, go for color and sparkle first

If you have a limited budget, you have to compromise on something; either the size, color, clarity (flaw grade), or liveliness. Of these four factors, one can see size, color, and liveliness. In terms of what most people notice on the finger, the clarity is the least important in our opinion. Personally, on a limited budget we would choose a stone with the best possible color and liveliness personality.

What most people don't understand is that even in SI2 diamonds, flaws are not really noticeable when the diamond is being worn and, in most cases, can't be seen at all without using a magnifier. In fact, if you take a well cut one carat D-color and FL (Flawless)-clarity diamond and hold it nest to a well cut one carat D/SI2 diamond, you will not see any difference with the naked eye. Contrary to what many think, it is not the clarity grade that determines how lively an brilliant a diamond will be, But its cut and proportioning. And you may feel much more sparkling yourself if you can spend $7,500 for a diamond, D/SI2, that could look like a $36,000, D/IF, diamond to anyone without a magnifier!

The diamond brilliance and liveliness is as important as its color. After all, that's what sets the gem apart from glass and cheap imitations. A well cut diamond has more sparkle; more brilliance and "fire," than any other gem. But the key to the sparkle is in its being well cut. We have seen diamonds that were so badly cut that they had no life at all. In fact, one might just as well be looking at a piece of glass.

For this reason, we prefer diamonds with very fine makes. Diamonds that are cut to look a little larger than they actually are can also be pretty, but when they are cut too spread, they will be lifeless. In our opinion, we'd rather buy a diamond that's cut exceptionally well; a diamond that really dances before the eye, even though it costs more. Because it does cost more, we would consider lowering the color grade a little in exchange for the best possible "make," or coming down in size a little. As you shop around, be sure to pay attention to the way a diamond is cut. Ask to see diamonds with "ideal" makes. You'll soon be able to spot differences in brilliance and liveliness. Then your eye will help you find the right balance for your own budget.

- A small difference in points can make a big difference in dollars.

The cost of a diamond increases significantly when it reaches the full, 1 carat weight. However, try to find a diamond that weight 90 points (or 9/10 of a carat). When set, few can see the difference between a 90 points diamond and one that is a full one carat diamond. The difference, however, is very noticeable in dollars. Where a fine one carat diamond (G/VS1 quality) might sell for $9,800, the same quality diamond weighting 90 points might cost only $8,500. The money you save could pay for a beautiful diamond studded wedding band!

A word of caution: Be careful that you aren't sold a diamond that is too "spread" (a term used to describe a diamond that is cut to look larger than its real weight). We've seen diamonds weighing 90 points that are actually LARGER in dimension than 1 carat diamond that is cut well. These diamonds usually lack the brilliance and sparkle of a well made diamond. You may be pleased with with their size, but make sure you are pleased with the sparkle. After all, if you are paying for a diamond, you deserve a stone that show its full beauty.

- What to consider when selecting the color grade.

D-color is the rarest and most expensive color in white diamonds. There are very few diamonds that receive this very high grade. Diamonds graded from D through H on the GIA scale are graded in the "white" by other grading systems and, when mounted, will appear white. I and J colors are colored "slightly tinted" by other systems and you may see some yellowish or brownish tint in the stone body color. K and L may also be called "tinted white," and you can more easily see the tint. M through Z may also be called "tinted color" or "off white" and appear yellowish or brownish white.

The difference in cost between D and E color, however; even though both considered "white" diamonds, can be significant.

It is important to remember that when a diamond is set, it is extremely difficult to tell the difference between D, E, and F colors without comparing them immediately nest to each other. For those on a budget, selecting a diamond with E, F, or G color rather than D might enable you to bets meet all your expectations; a "white'" diamond with lots of sparkle in a pleasing size.

- The color of your setting can make your diamond appear more white.

If you are on a limited budget, keep in mind that if you feel you can't afford a diamond as white as you would like and still have the size and sparkle that's important, setting the stone in a white gold or platinum may make the diamond appear more white than it really is. Less white diamonds (L through M colors) can actually look more white in a white gold or platinum setting; the whiteness of the metal is reflected into the diamond and masks the yellow, making the diamond appear more white. Yellowish tinted diamond ( M - Z Colors) usually look more white in a yellow gold setting, where the contrast with with the bright yellow of the setting masks the yellowish tint of the diamond and often makes it appear more white.

- Flaws may mar the beauty of your diamond ring less than you think.

On a budget, they may add beauty! As discussed previously, flaws cannot normally be seen in a mounted diamond with the naked eye until the classification I1 clarity! And even in diamonds classified as "I'" flaws are not immediately visible when the diamond is set, especially when worn. So, while it's important to know what the flaw grade is to be sure you are paying the correct price, this is the factor you can stretch the farthest without affecting the beauty of the diamond you select. It's one area in which juggling can dramatically affect the budget while not affecting the sparkle. Therefore, we normally recommend trying to meet your personal preferences regarding the other three factors first. The price difference between Flawless and Internally Flawless, and each successive grade, can be dramatic. Looking at the diamonds without using a loupe, the D/SI@ would look like the D/IF!

- Consider shapes other than round.

While the round brilliant cut diamond is considered by most to be the cut that best reveals the diamond's maximum beauty, it normally looks smaller than diamonds cut in other shapes. Today women are showing an increased interest in other shapes. In comparison to the round, pear shaped diamonds and marquise shaped diamonds look larger.

- Consider a design that uses several small stones than one large diamond.

As we discussed in greater depth in previous articles, may beautiful designs use several small diamonds rather than one large diamond. These designs offer a beautiful way to keep the budget down. The smaller the diamond, the lower the price per carat. For example, a one carat round brilliant cut diamond set in a solitaire ring more than a ring containing three diamonds having a total weight of one carat (each diamond weighing 1/3 carat). A solitaire, while it is the most popular ring style among new brides-to-be, is also the most expensive.

Look for the innovative designs available in multi gemstone rings. These offer an alternative that can create a very important and individual look.

- Illusion settings.

Certain settings create an illusion that diamond is larger than it is.

- Bold designs in gold and platinum add importance and distinctiveness to smaller diamonds.

New designs reflecting today's more independent woman have had a major impact on the engagement ring and wedding band market. Using wider, innovative designs in metal can create a very impressive look, using a smaller diamond (less that one carat) as well as larger diamonds.

- Listen to your heart as well as your head.

The most important consideration in the selection of your engagement ring is how you feel about it. You want to feel a thrill; you want to feel excited; you want it to be your choice. If you really prefer yellow gold, don't let someone talk you into platinum; if you really prefer the pear shape diamond, don't let someone talk you into round shape diamond.
One of our clients was torn between two diamonds; one had the finest possible color D and she knew it was the "better" diamond.

The other was a little larger and it was not quite as white, F color, but it had a magnificent make and the sparkle was really dazzling. She decided on the slightly larger diamond, even though it was F color, because she was honest with herself and her fiancee; she really preferred a diamond that was a little larger, she was constantly drawn back to that diamond because of its "personality." The other diamond was a "rarer" stone, color-wise, which made it more expensive on the per carat basis, but it was not the one she really felt excited about. She made the right choice in going with her heart and not her head!

Diamond Grading report (certificate)

Today, few fine diamonds over one carat are sold without a diamond grading report (or certificate, as they are also called) from a respected laboratory. Reports issued by the GIA, Gem Trade laboratory, are the most widely used in the United States and in many countries around the world.
A grading report does more than certify the diamond's genuineness; it fully describes the stone and evaluates each of the critical factors affecting quality, beauty, and value. The information they contain can provide verification of the facts as represented by the seller and enable one to make a safer decision when purchasing a diamond. Another important function of the reports is to verify the identity of the specific diamond at some some future time. Also for insurance purposes, the the information provided on the report will ensure replacement of the lost or stolen diamond with one that is truly compatible quality.

The availability and widespread use of these reports can, when properly understood, enable even those without professional skills to make valid comparison between several diamonds and more informed buying decisions.

The article above can be used on your web site or newsletter.

When it is published, May I request that you include my name and resource box (the bio., contact and copyright information that follows the article. I would also appreciate if you could send me an e-mail of notification along with a complimentary copy of publication.

Bijan Aziz is the owner and Web Master for The Jewelry Hut.

http://www.thejewelryhut.com

The best source for fine Diamond, gemstone, and Pearl Jewelry on the Web

Author: Bijan Aziz
Article Source: EzineArticles.com